27 Aug 2013 - Mundane Beginnings
Things were
going on boringly smooth since the morning of our journey to Delhi. Unlike the
previous trek our flight time was a more humane one, hence no wrestling with
alarms or issues with getting a taxi; nothing exciting during the drive to the
airport, except for the acquaintance of Navnit Shetty, hence for the first time
we did not have to run in the beginning of a journey, a record broken for the
better let’s hope; and there was nothing noteworthy during check in and
boarding as well.
There was no customer delight
factor in the flight thanks to the sad economic downturn and closure of our
previous hosts to Delhi; we had to buy our own breakfast that was worthy of a 5
star hotel in expense and sufficient to satiate a rat’s hunger in quantity, no
travel magazine with brilliant pictures or interesting travelogues and with the
sun having already risen, the horizon too looked pretty commonplace. The only
silver lining was not in, but literally the clouds themselves. Glowing white,
thick & dense, of shapes that would befuddle even a connoisseur of modern
art and spread as far as human sight permitted without a blot, patch or any
opening to mar the view; they gave a great feeling of gliding through a sea of
snow. A couple of them even resembled icebergs with some portion rising above
the plane of the clouds. Mobile phones with the basic camera that they offer
were duly put to good use and the various camera functions sufficiently
exploited.
The drive to 85, sector 45,
Gurgaon too proved to be uneventful since we took a prepaid taxi hence no cumbersome queues, crowds or security
checks or the extended route of the metro and no haggling with taxi owners over
the fare. The only thought that kept crossing our mind was could this be the
lull before the storm? The conspicuous absence of the royal welcoming party at
85, sector 45, Gurgaon, the four Royal Enfields, was something not to escape
the eye and generated curiosity about their current engagement. There was also
the curiosity of meeting new trek mates since the party that was going on this
trek was much bigger and different from the previous one. Thus we entered the
royal hall on a curious and simultaneous “apna hi adda hai attitude” care free
note!
27 Aug 2013 - Novel Encounters!
Many new faces greeted us as we entered the royal hall; Meena’s brother
Hitesh who has a striking resemblance to Meena yet is different from the bigger
camel in some aspects stood before us as we tried to guess what witchcraft
could have brought such a drastic change over our dear friend. As we stood
wondering, out came the older brother himself and welcomed us in the fashion
typical of him, lifting us off the ground as easily as one would lift a baby,
which going by our size and weights was child’s play for the big man. We made
some new acquaintances (Dileep, Girish, Ritvij etc.) and happily greeted old
ones, Ramu our old college mate and the ever smiling Guru who somehow had got
into his brains that taking a bath was the need of the hour. Recognizing Rajesh
in his new look proved to be a task so also guessing what Pankaj was always
busy with from his ever busy, being on the toes nature.
While all this was
going on tau, of Bikat’s fame having the coordination of Rudragaira trek to his
credit, was busy with the packing of stuff and pressing people to get packed
since we had little time on hand. Inder was missing from the Abhik da
experience we had last time and probably to compensate for that he and Navnit
went to the malls at M G Road metro station and we did our best to give them a
glimpse of that experience by asking for stuff (Ritvij’s demand) as Ari had
done last time. Anna has brand written all over him, so expecting him to buy
normal socks was something out of question. In fact he is oblivious to the
presence of normal stuff around him and hence after a round of frantic calls it
was finally left to him to decide what socks to get.
Bikat’s had
provided spoons, army cans and containers to each one of us this time round
along with the rucksacks and we also had to carry 3 to 5kg of rations apart
from our own stuff, an obnoxious and am sure much protested against decision at
least in the mind if not out loud. We also received a black T-shirt with the
Bikat’s logo embroidered on it. Having completed the packing and after
collecting our dinner packets we left for Kashmere gate station with Meena in
lead. As we were boarding the auto we were stopped by Mr. Uday to enquire about
Bikat’s office having recognized us from the Bikat’s T-shirt that we were
wearing; the shirt had started doing its job, that of promoting Bikats!
Meena boasting of
two metro cards and making us wait while he tried all means to get the cashless
card working, which in its right stubbornly refused to oblige was an
interesting episode. While we waited, a couple of security guards confirmed
where we were going with all the army rucksacks to which we replied in the most
polite manner possible lest we draw some unnecessary attention to the already
unwanted gazes that we were drawing.
The number of
people using the metro seems to have tremendously increased since after the
regulatory security checks we were surprised to witness a sea of people rushing
all over the place. Considering it was a sea, one would expect a low tide event
as well sometimes but this unique sea seemed unaware of such a thing. HUDA city
centre, the station from where we would board the train being the final station
on the route we had hoped to get a seat on the metro, but with the mass exodus
around, it was a bit too much to ask. We stood all the way to Kashmere gate in
all possible inhuman crooked postures, performing all possible ‘yogasanas’ and
simultaneously trying to settle the resentful and touchy rucksack in a stable
position.
The ISBT stand
seems to have gone international with its huge sprawling halls, beefed up
security, top class waiting area and other such things that would humble the T1
Delhi airport terminal if not T3. We stood outside the gates wondering whether
we were at the correct place or not and finally decided to go in since we could
not come up with anything smarter. After due help from the local public we
finally arrived at the stand from where our bus was most likely to start, the
probability of which was same for at least 10 stands on either side, something
we’ve learnt to account for in our estimations. Some of us helped unload the
stuff, which would fulfill our basic human requirements for the next few days,
that was driven from Bikat’s office and transfer it to the probable bus stop, a
task which was accomplished only when one of the porters deemed it necessary to
rescue us from our misery and receive a generous payment in return.
Slowly all of us assembled
at the stand, the bus arrived expectedly late and at a place 5 stands away,
luggage was stuffed in the compartment meant for it, seats identified after the
usual commotion and as we settled down we found something interesting. We had a
new companion who had occupied one of our seats assuming this bus to be some
other one. Getting him to budge would have been a Herculean task had we not called
upon the services of his highness the bus conductor to deal justice. Purisabzi
in tin foil and Ashiqui 2 on DVD was our final excitement for the day. Ashiqui
got associated with us on the DVD and practically never left during the trek.
We had begun the day on a boring note and ended it on a highly expectant one.
28 Aug 2013 - Native Fools and Hot
Pools
The bus dropped us at Bajaura early in the morning where two tempo
travelers were waiting to pick us up. Unloading and reloading activity was
accomplished within minutes and soon we were off again to the starting point of
our trek. No sooner had we started, than the vehicles stopped again, at a hotel
in Bhuntar (that boasts of an airport), where we were asked to freshen up and
have a sumptuous breakfast, the last of our luxurious meals for the next few
days to come. Lunch was prepared, packed and handed over to us here itself. We
left Bhuntar and crossed Jari, Kasol, the Israeli retreat where you notice more
foreigners than Indians and also the place where spirits were procured for the
spiritual leaders among us and while the spirits were being tended to, the
creative geniuses among us got clicking and on one such piece of art tau couldn't resist saying “bhai hai mera” which triggered an emotional wave among the
rest and resulted in the following:
Kuch bhai ke milne ki khushi
Kuch mausam ki madhoshi
Thoda trek
pe jaane ka josh
Thoda jagah ka firangi
dosh
Thoda camere ka kamaal
Thoda kheenchne wale
ka dhamaal
Kuch naye purane
logon se milne ka parv
Overall Bikat hone
pe GARV!!!
We then crossed
Manikaran, the holy pilgrimage site for Hindus and Sikhs where it is believed
human life was recreated by Manu after the colossal flood during which the
whole of the earth was submerged under water and where Guru Nanak professed
donating generously for the betterment of human race and where you find hot
water springs in plenty which has led to the establishment of an experimental
geothermal energy plant. Thus after a good 2 hour drive among beautiful lush
green hills, rich laden apple orchards and a Himalayan themed private property
we reached Barshani the starting point of our trek.
The trek started at
the confluence of two rivers in the Parvati valley and astonishingly it began
with us descending a hill than ascending one as many would expect. The plan was
to have food at Rudranag and just in case our tummies didn't permit such an
audacious atrocity on itself we would have it at Nakthan, a village consisting
of some precariously balanced settlements in between Barshani and Rudranag.
However, the village came and went and we still mustered on, some of us
protesting some approving and still others happy to be in the inertial state
that they were in. There were many apple orchards on the way with most of the
trees enticingly red with ripe juicy fruit; restraining ourselves from plucking
them was a lethal challenge to our ethical faculties and some of us succumbed
to the worldly desires of peppy hearts and rumbling stomachs, a rumble in the
jungle it was literally. An elderly lady who was manning one of the apple
orchards was more bent on selling the ingredients of the holy smoke than on
selling the red juicy orbs she was guarding. With the world going all
materialistic one would be surprised at the local populace over here which is
still compassionate, kind and heartily generous, it is like they want to show
off their apples, which in fact do deserve to be shown off.
The path that we
clumped on was quite comfortable, neither rising nor falling too severely, just
enough to avoid being labeled “a walk in the park.” We reached Rudranag, which
has a temple of lord Shiva and a beautiful waterfall in which the water bounces
of a huge rock before resulting in the final sprinkled fall. The packed lunch
was gobbled up here on a gorgeous meadow and the apples that were found on the
way shared. We then moved on through dense foliage among thick firs, pines and
clear water streams and a slightly difficult terrain, something quite different
from our pre lunch experience. The final phase of the trek was a never ending
one and thus after many 5 minute assurances from our guide and the locals we
had finally given up hope of reaching itself let alone reaching in 5 minutes.
However, we eventually reached the camp site after half an hour of the last 5
minute assurance. Celebrations were immediately commenced and tents set up in
an open space. The last of the small groups that we were trekking in arrived as
the last rays of the sun left the horizon.
News about the presence of
a hot water spring spread like a wild fire through the trekking party. While
most of us were doubtful of taking a bath at first we were more than determined
to take the holy dip by the time we reached the sacrosanct pool, partly because
the pool was very alluring and majorly because the diarrheic cows of the region
had ensured that it was “a cake walk” with cake taking the figurative
colloquial meaning it is associated with. We had dinner about a small camp fire
and promptly dropped down in our tents to cherish some hard earned and much
needed sleep.
The place from where we started trekking is called Pulga, the place of confluence of river TOSH & river PARWATI |
First bridge to cross, over river TOSH. |
Taking a night time dip in the hot water pool of Kheerganga |
The mystical waterfall of RUDRANAG, we had our first halt here.the way till here is filled with apple orchards. yes ! We ate best quality apples direct from the trees. |
Halt @ Rudranag for Lunch . 1st day of the trek |
29 Aug 2013 - Famished Flabbergasted
Fascinated
Daily ablutions are hardly a necessity in these parts and we had
cleansed ourselves the previous night itself; thus though there was a perennial
source of hot water at our disposal we chose the rather simpler and popular way
of completely avoiding contact between body and water, though some enthusiasts
did spring themselves in the spring in the morning as well. Thus after
completing the inevitable requirements of this organic living mass and having a
breakfast of bread-omelette and bread-peanut butter we moved on towards the
next base camp.
The track was muddy
as opposed to the partly rocky one we had encountered during the second half of
the previous day’s trek and was thus quite easy going on the feet. We tramped
along without much effort while capturing the wild with our eyes and cameras
both. As we travelled through the dense forest we were surprised to find a
family settled in this wilderness managing a herd of callous water buffalo, who
sat ruminating in an insouciant nonchalant manner. While the buffaloes took
little interest in us, we did draw some suspicious looks from the family.
As was the norm for
each day’s trek, the trek would not come to an end until we had given up all
hope of ever reaching the destination. The last phase had a steep rise full of
muck and mire that was followed by a short walk through a meadow with an enchanting
view of couple of huge foamy waterfalls off the rich green cliff on the
opposite side of the river. Lot many pictures in all possible postures were
clicked with each one among us trying his best to look decent after the day’s
ordeal. Food had not been packed for the day, with the idea being to cook it
when we reach the destination or when we stop in between, a farfetched plan
indeed. However, stop we didn’t, and since different people had different
destinations in mind it was total pandemonium when we reached Tundabujh.
The porter who was
carrying the tents had a wild destination in mind, good 2 hours away from the
spot where we had stopped, and in his over enthusiasm was well on course to
make it. While Kashi sat deciphering what went wrong, the two parties on the
hills on either side of a small stream tried to initiate a dialogue by
bellowing out to each other and swaying & swinging in all stupid ways
possible. There was more confusion at this controversial campsite since Kashi
insisted on camping on one side of the stream while half of the party had
already moved over to the other side and settled down in a decisive manner.
Getting us to move was never an option let alone a smart one and deep inside
the porters themselves knew this to be true.
As we waited for
others to arrive and for some solution to come out of all the hollering and
comic waving Anna got busy creating his masterpiece. A two room shelter serving
as a hermitage for a yogi formed one of the entities and the track of a
seasonal rivulet, that comes to life depending on the might of the Sun god and
his ability to energize the couch potatoes that sit at the top lazily enjoying
the activity in the valley and literally and figuratively thaw some of the
inactivity out of them, formed the second entity. After trying various
locations and positions and the various camera functions the master found the
perfect camera setting and the immaculate angle and clicked his masterpiece in
which these two entities on different hills were combined splendidly to give an
impression that a road lead away from the shelter in to Elysium a “Road to
Heaven” truly.
Hunger had set in
since it was well past lunch time by the time we had reached and around tea
time when the remaining party (that involved the porters carrying the rations)
arrived in Tundabujh. We tried to manage with whatever items were available
with the porters who had reached a bit early; some dry bread and a couple of
spoonfuls of milkmaid for a few lucky ones. Somebody got hold of the porter
with the tents and brought him back and the kitchen tent was set up at a pace
that would humble “Thalaiva” himself. Hot soup and pakodas were served within
minutes which brought back some liveliness in the trekking party and also
kicked some sense into our dull blocked heads which made us realize that we
needed to move the tents from the wet shrubs on which they were setup to a more
congenial location.
The usual banter
provided the perfect seasoning for dinner and we enjoyed them both around a
bonfire of wet hedges that had conspired along with the wind to turn a couple
of us into ghosts by smoking our already pale faces. The arduous trek ensured
that none of lingered for long around the fire and that we were perfectly
unconscious and noisily snoring before long.
PARWATI valley seen from a point on the way from KHEERGANGA to TUNDABHU |
On the way to TUNDABHUJ |
camps at TUNDABHUJ |
morning in TUNDABHUJ |
when the clouds came running in TUNDABHUJ. 3rd day |
the mystical path seems to disappear in the sky..3rd day |
A lonely shepherd hut at TUNDA BHOJ. 2nd day. |
30
Aug 2013 – Part I – Acquaintance of the “Suspension”
We found the pathway to paradise, the road to heaven the previous day and on this fine day the almighty decided to open up the heavenly gates as well and shower us with his blessings in quantities sufficient to satiate the needs of many a generation to come. In fact so impressed with us was he that he kept on showering throughout the day and would have drowned us in this deluge of blessings had it not been for some deliverance from the mountains themselves that provided us the occasional shelter in the form of huge rocks or some tree cover and ensured that the excess blessings would flow down and be carried over to more of us in the fertile plains below.
They say to achieve great success
you’ve to overcome great hurdles and bridges come in handy in the overcoming
part of such grandiose endeavours. Bridges are more than simple physical
entities; they are an embodiment of something which brings things closer, by
connecting the separate entities, be it in physical form or in the form of
political, professional or personal relationships. Hence bridges have always
been given great importance in history and in war and have a great fan
following the entire world around. We too had our fare share of dealings with
them on the trek and some of them did what they could to ensure that the trek
would not be so easily forgotten.
While tiny
rocks and pebbles served as bridges while crossing many small streams the
showstoppers for the day were the three bridges each unique and treacherous in
its own way. After about an hour of plodding downhill from the camp we reached
the first of the showstoppers where the company assembled to get directions
from its captain, KashiYpal. A shepherd with his flock of sheep on the other
side seemed eager to cross the bridge before us and thus quickly guided the
sheep across this wobbly bridge suspended off the rocks at the river bank. The
final few did give the poor fellow some nervous moments and tested his patience
by running forward and backward and finally almost jumping into the river.
The bridge
seemed to have been decently built when it was first built, however, time
seemed to have taken its toll and whatever remained of it was held together by
ropes going in all direction from the various places where it needed to be
buttressed. All the ropes had left the bridge leaning on one side, which earned
it its name “TedhaPul”, luckily on the side that still had the railing, and to
counter the angle created, mud and stones were spread to form a path in certain
sections of it. The whole thing was pretty delicately balanced and we were
advised to cross one at a time and to sit in case the bridge gets mischievous
and has some fun by playing one of the many possible tricks it has mastered
over the years of its long, and considering its state, not so prosperous
service. One by one we crossed at snail’s pace concentrating only on placing
the next foot while simultaneously repressing the urge to look around and into
the river down below.
The bridge
was followed by a steep hill, the time to hike which was being monitored by us
even before crossing the bridge. We did it in good time and congratulated
ourselves on the achievement as we trudged along the side of the mountain. It
was a decent walk among lush green grass and clear water brooks and rocky spots
in between to rest on. After about an hour and half’s trek we came upon the
second showstopper, another crossing of the river involving ropes but without
the usual platform. This one was a completely new experience for most of us
since it involved sitting in a cart and pushing and pulling to finally make it
to the other side.
Kashi and
his cohort, Supreet bore the brunt of having to pull all of us to the other
side, simple physics compelling the loaded cart to return back to the centre
once it was halfway through, a trick which the bridge was born with and could
not avoid even if it wanted to, and I am pretty sure it did not want to in the
first place based on the pleasure it derived by making us toil. Horses grazing
in the grasslands that followed the swamp was a picturesque sight indeed.
Dealing with the marshes and negotiating the many wet fields of wild flowers
that followed made sure that we got our socks and shoes oozing, and our pants
dripping water with every step and our footing extremely vulnerable. Packed
lunch was gobbled down at a rocky landing after Thakur Kuan, a beautiful place
to set up a camp.
We kept
close to the river while following Kashi who lead us up a hill and then much to
our agony and displeasure, disappeared suddenly. Weather taking a turn for the
worst not helping our cause, we tried all the means at our disposal, we even
called upon the services of the whistle which instead of drawing the attention
of one among our party drew the attention of something completely useless and
pretty dangerous, a big white animal which in our apprehended states prompted
Navnit to quip “snow leopard”. After some uncomfortable moments we spotted
Kashi, and the animal too finally moved revealing its identity to be that of a
dog, both findings relieving us of some undue pressure.
Carefully Negotiating a water crossing... |
2nd of the three bridges on the third day between TUNDABHUJ to ODITHATCH. you have to cross the mighty PARWATI sitting in a small trolly.3rd day |
waiting their turn .. |
30 Aug 2013 – Part II – The Twin
Menace
The inconspicuous presence of the 3rd showstopper made it very difficult
to notice its magnificent self and hence to tread the right path. Half the
party kept moving along the track where they could see the footpath, taking the
bridge to be just a dull lazy rock lying in the midst of nowhere; little did we
know then that it would have a mind of its own and take the insult of not
spotting it to heart. The bridge comprised of a huge rock which we had to
ascend to the top and then slide down to a spot where a narrow path of rocks,
without any support from either side, led to the hill on the other side. The
rocks and stones in this region had turned extremely slippery owing to the
torrential downpour and this one serving as a bridge was no exception.
We climbed it with
the help of the steps made of pebbles leaving our bag and baggage for Kashi to
carry over, but that was the end of the easy part. As an expert killer uses a
bait to draw its prey closer, this climbing part served as the bait used by the
rock that we so innocently took. Try hard as we may the rock made sure that we
did not slide to the place where we wanted to but to the place from where you
would go straight down into the thunderous roaring river while roaring for help
yourself. Though we had taken the bait, by God’s grace and Kashi’s help we did
not fall prey to the rock and all of us succeeded in crossing it safely.
As the colour was
returning to our cheeks Kashi chose this opportune moment to reveal the
presence of a second Pandupul; it was as if the life had been sucked out of
many of us and whatever colour had returned to the cheeks immediately
disappeared. It was an “Out of the frying pan and into the fire” kind of
situation where we could do nothing but pray for deliverance. While we were
wondering what devilry was this, what kind of fiendish joke, what evil prank
was being played on us Kashi tried to pacify us by stating the ease with which
we would pass the second one since we had already cleared the first one but
having experienced his 5 minute assurances earlier we knew better than to trust
this one.
Rain and wind
combined brilliantly with the turbulent raucous river to send a chill down the
spine and magnify the fear of Pandupul 2. The fact that our feet, socks and
shoes too were wet apart from the entire body played heavily on the mind and we
knew the wet and slippery rocks would definitely help our fears to come true.
Added to these two facts, Pandupul 2 comprised of an even bigger rock than
Pandupul 1, to whose base we had to scale using again one of the pebble stairs
and from then on climb the steep slippery face to the top and then climb down a
stone staircase with no proper footing or holding. But having crossed Pandupul
1 and having Kashi and the caped crusader on our side we did not let these
ominous factors that portended evil affect us much and were unfazed by the
might of this huge rock as well.
Seeing the caped
crusader effortlessly scale the face of this rock we were pretty certain we
would definitely make it at least with his aid. Then we saw the magical thing
that batman does, one moment he is standing with his cape swaying in the wind
and in the next one he is gone just like in the movies except that in the
movies he glides down and lands perfectly while in the present case batman lay
sprawled on the same spot where he stood and was grappling with Pandupul 2 and
grasping and I am sure gasping as well for life. Egged on by the porters most
of us started climbing up with aplomb and immediately started slipping with
equal terror and had to grapple and grasp and gasp before some help came from
them, who for their part, climbed up wearing just slippers as one would on a
promenade. One by one, slowly and somewhat unsteadily all of us made it past
this last of the rocky hurdles. Finally after about quarter of an hour more we
reached the camp helplessly cold and insanely shivering.
After innumerable
futile attempts at getting a fire going we decided it was better to assemble
around the few wet logs which the porters had managed to set ablaze with some
kerosene and paper to aid in the cooking. We were not in any state to celebrate
our chivalrous act of conquering (read sheepishly tumbling over) the Pandupuls
and dinner was a mere formality which a couple of us even skipped. First aid
kit with the stock of medical supplies came to aid in the case of many among us
to nurse the inflictions of the Pandu twins and thus we ended the day truly
spent but with a pleasant sense of achievement.
Deepak & Sunny inside trolley bridge,, |
last of the three bridges on the third day between TUNDABHUJ to ODITHATCH. PANDU PUL, it was the most adventurous. Legends say that PANDAVAS made this bridge by throwing rocks in the river |
PANDU PUL camp site.4th day |
PANDU PUL camp site |
How dare you enter my territory !!!Dog,cute & dangerous at the same time.. shepherds use them to protect sheeps from wolfs & other wild animals... |
camping amongst the clouds.PANDUPUL campsite. 4th days |
31 Aug 2013 - Unexpected Sights and
Worthy Flashlights
On the evening of the day before, only about half a dozen were ready to
trudge the 30km to and fro to Mantalai, however, by the morning the number had
significantly gone up to a healthy 14. After a light breakfast we began at our
normal slow pace without waiting for the porters who, according to the plan,
the success of which depended on our slow and their quick pace, of which at
least the former was a certainty, were going to cook lunch and carry it to us
by noon. Quite contrary to our fears after the previous day’s ordeal, the trek
turned out to be quite a comfortable one with a nice path leading through green
grasslands that were used by the shepherds to graze their livestock by paying a
nominal fee to the government. Slow and steady and with a break or two now and
then we reached Udithatch, a great plain among the craggy Himalayas, a rare
sight at such height. The site brought about the idea of getting a cricket
ground built over there and also brought the accompanying question whether it
would beat Dharmashala to the title of being the highest cricket ground in the world.
The day offered
various picturesque sights and the master put his muse to great use. Next we
came upon Khadapatthar, which as the name suggests was a rocky area with many
small streams and across one such stream “tau” took the ‘leap of faith’,
“imaankichalang”, and was rewarded with a bruised knee, hurt ego and damaged
pride. After crossing Khadapatthar we reached the great swamp which was safely
negotiated by going around rather than through it and thus we reached mini
Mantalai, a beautiful grassland of myriad flowers and diverse hues, rocks laden
with bright coloured algae and fungi and a plethora of flora complementing each
other and with the river meandering along innumerate twists and turns through
this beautiful grassland it was a spectacular view indeed. Lunch of khichadi
was had here in the incessant downpour that accompanied us on our journey for
the major part of the day and distance, which in no way seemed to affect the
porters, not even their afternoon siesta.
The interminable
walk had started taking toll and the absence of potable water made things
worse. Few of us had given up hope of seeing the trek through, but we decided
to just keep on walking. After scaling a rocky mountain which in itself seemed
unending we finally reached our destination, Mantalai. Mantalai is a small lake
formed by the blocking of melt waters from the Mantalai glacier by a mountain
that runs across the valley leaving only a small opening which results in a
small yet highly noisy waterfall. Here is a temple of Lord Shiva and it is here
that the porters broke their fast after the sacred puja. The setting elicited
the following statement from Ritvij “Aisanahi lag rahaki hum
gangaghatpebaithehain, HaridwaryaRishikesh me?” Anna was a bit diplomatic at
first about his feelings for the place but on being pressed the next day his
exact words were thus:”Sachbolu to mujhe mini mantalaiacchalaga, aslimantalai
to poora fraud nikla.” We had to cut short our stay at the lake due to the
weather taking a turn for the worse and thus we started back within minutes but
not before we had clicked a few pictures and gorged on the dates from Guru’s
stock.
We began the return
journey with great pace especially since we were hungry and also since it was
getting late and darkness would set in soon. Some of us rushed ahead while some
lagged behind and though we were hungry and were offered Khichdi at one of the
regrouping points after the swamp, which unlike the morning we crossed by going
through that around, most of us couldn’t get even a morsel down our throats. We
tried keeping a steady pace but try hard as we may we could not make it to the
camp site before dark. It was total mayhem in the dark with nobody knowing
where to go. Kashi was asked to lead the pack with the rest towing behind in a
single file. The odd flashlight here and there confused even Kashi and he
suspected us of having left one among the 14 behind. After some random
flashings it was decided it could only be a shepherd and we moved on.
A flashlight was
seen again accompanied by the sound of a whistle. Hitesh had gone ahead all
alone and after wandering for an hour or so had given up on his good fortune
and deemed it fit to sit at a spot and wait for the rest. 8 – 9 torches in a
straight file gave him some hope and the response whistle from our side
elicited a sigh of relief from him. The dark had reduced the pace of the
already snail slow party to a quarter which made Kashi all the more restless.
Frequent counting and after going through mud and water much like fire and
water we finally came upon the camp around 2100 hours having covered 30km in a
single day, veritably tired, utterly spent and not one bit hungry. Some of us
pushed down a puri or two and some kheer and started snoring immediately dreading
the might of Pandu twins and seeking divine intervention.
Janmon ki pyas bujhi hai aaj!! @ Mini Mantalai |
Wild horses grazing in the meadows between TUNDABHUJ & ODITHATCH.. 3rd day. |
teaser of mantalai lake. this landscape carried on for about an hour before we finally reached mantalai lake. 4th day |
The place is called MINI MANTALAI, its a long stretch of meadows with long streams of water criss crossing. on 4th day |
New Biginings ! A morning in the mountains |
The Mantalai Lake |
The real motivation on the 5th & 6th day for everyone was this hot water pool at KHEERGANGA . after trekking of 6 days this pool was a real bliss.6th day |
Dancing to the tunes of Yo Yo Honey Singh |
02 September 2013 - Back to Square One
The morning of the 2nd of September was a luxurious affair. We woke up late, had hot water for washing, cleaning, brushing and freshening ourselves up and loads of sunshine to dry all our wet stuff. The water which flowed down from the spring was smartly tapped by the local folk and directed to the washrooms thus eliminating the need of heating water. We lazed in the hot water pool for a long time and got out when we deemed it fit. As we were getting out, the rest of the party arrived and started jumping into the pool. They had made an early start like on the earlier days and covered the one and a half hour trek by 9am.
While this party was treating itself to the benevolence of the hot spring we indulged in a rather heavy breakfast of Parathas and musli with the hope that it’ll help us in the day’s activity by keeping our energy levels high. The organizers for their part took a quick dip and got busy trying to find the time of the return bus from Kullu with the aid of the only available active mobile phone and the resourcefulness of Rana sahib to dig out information. Rana informed that the bus was to start at 5 o’clock in the evening due to which all of us made haste and started trekking down immediately so as to reach Pulga by 2pm. Those who had arrived in the morning had already had a breakfast of Bread Pakodas, a fried delicacy of bread with stuffing at the camp itself before moving for Kheerganga, thus they too were set to move without any fuss.
The downward trek was easy going on the mind though not necessarily on the feet. Going through the beautiful firs and pines is always a wonderful experience and with the multiple fresh water rivulets adding to the charm of the place the trek was blissful indeed. After about 2 hours of trekking we reached Rudranag where it was decided to have lunch. Few of us decided against it and moved on. Letting gravity do the work of pulling us down on the downward slopes may give an impression of an excellent strategy to save energy, but those who have seen a few winters will immediately discourage such a strategy that is certain to backfire. We learnt it the hard way by experimenting on ourselves; by actually having to use up more energy than what we would have if we had trekked the normal way.
The generosity of the local folk is simply amazing to say the least. We were again offered apples for no charge at all in Nakhtan and that too in sufficient quantities so that all of us could have at least one if not more. As experienced by us during all the days of our trek we literally had to pray for the destination and though we could actually see the assembly point some distance away it turned out to be pretty far off as is usually the case in the mountains. We really had to stretch ourselves during the last phase of trekking i.e. climbing the steep steps up from the bridge from where we had begun the trek. With the aid of some last burst of energy we finally reached the assembly spot where our most punctual Force Travellers were waiting to pick us up.
02 September 2013 - Provoked Officer
The phone networks were picked up by the almost dead cell phones and people got busy informing family and friends of their well being and some over enthusiastic guys even called up their workplaces to know if they could be of any help. We travelled back to Bhuntar, after treating the porters for all their help during the trek, all the while ogling at the apple orchards on the way down and trying to figure out whether to buy apples or not. Tau took prints of our bus tickets at Bhuntar and found that the bus was to leave at 8pm and not at 5pm as informed by Rana sahib at which Rana sahib was dealt a hearty round of expletives, to which I am sure, by knowing him in person, he is no inferior.
With sufficient time on hand we finally had a sumptuous meal, bought the coveted apples and moved at a leisurely pace to the Kullu bus stand. Uday left us here in Bhuntar wishing us all good bye with plans of reaching Shimla on the next day. We were greeted by the “chat” hawkers at the bus stand who were enthusiastically hawking their “chat” which they claimed was a special delicacy of the place and that we should try it having travelled from far off. The suggestion though appropriate entailed a certain amount of dependency on a superior power which may choose to have a bit of fun itself and hence most of us politely declined the offer.
With nothing to do till the bus arrived many of us just sat down discussing the trek, some ambled along among the stalls and still others did whatever they deemed appropriate. The bus arrived late and the conductor was flabbergasted by the amount of luggage we were carrying. We had to talk to him in letting us carry it to which he relented after much haggling from our side. Guru was busy complaining about the packaging of the vehicle, especially since it was a product of the organization with which I was employed; demanding answers as demanded by the current lot of maniac news reporters when they get hold of a politician on their show.
The premise that all our action and drama had come to an end with the trek turned out to be pretty inaccurate. People requesting the conductor to switch the ac on and off alternately throughout the 2 hours that we had travelled infuriated the poor guy and in one of his outbursts he came from his cabin and started opening all the ac vents in the passenger cabin shouting “kholo kholo kholo isko”. In the ensuing altercation, which happened to be the last of many small ones earlier, somebody accused him of being drunk on duty which, simpleton that he was, made him go hammer and tongs at us. After some reasoning from our side and much pleading for peace he was calm again and smiling at the incident like the rest of us. This pretty much was the last of the action for the day and though there was a brief halt at night for food, which many among the trekking party refused to make use of, there wasn’t anything that would raise eyebrows and thus we were soon snoring our way to the capital.
Scene inside the bus- By Navneet Shetty |
03 September 2013 - The Wholesome End
The bus dropped us off at Kashmere gate where we unloaded both our tons of luggage and our individual heavy selves. The apple cases were drawing undue attention from the public and a couple of them even enquired about the contents, where we had got them from and how much did they cost us. We had picked of the some of the courteous mannerisms of the people of Nakhtan and obliged these inquisitors with suitable answers though not with the actual fruit itself. We soon got back into the nonchalant and detached city mode and with our indifferent countenance successfully avoided any further enquiry if not the actual attention.
People from in and around Delhi left immediately after congratulating all on having a wonderful and memorable trek and exchanging good wishes and assurances of remaining in touch. The organizers had to get all the trekking paraphernalia, kitchen ware and other common stuff back to their place carrying which in the luxurious Delhi metro would have been a mini adventure in itself and hence they had booked a taxi. We threw in some of our stuff as well especially the apple cases and whatever else could be accommodated and left for the Metro station.
The generous gift from my new woodlands (shoe bite) had swollen my ankles and I was finding it difficult to move quickly and so we drifted slowly to the station. There were 7 to 8 of us and taking all along meant we weren’t very quick but we were in no real hurry either. The station was bustling with activity which somehow did not make any difference to us and we got the tickets went through the security check at our own pace. Getting lost in the crowd and waiting for each other ensued and after a couple of rounds of the same all of us assembled at the right platform just in time for the next train. It was the stomach bug on the previous trek and it was the shoe bite this time round which ensured that the effect of the trek did not wear down pretty soon at least not till we reached 85, Sector 45, Gurgaon.
As luck would have it we did not find any seats on the metro and expecting a comfortable journey at least standing if not sitting was too much to ask for. We were bullied into all sorts of comic shapes and positions by the crowd and after about an hour or so of this metro gifted misery we reached our destination and were at the Bikats office within minutes hurriedly packing and showering to catch the flight back home. The cook had prepared some “puri sabji” when we were busy with our ablutions which we quickly pushed down and rushed to the cab which had arrived to take us the airport. There is action to be had in the most unlikely of places and situations, which though momentarily troubling makes things interesting and memorable, and so we had one last bit of forgetting and reminding activity ourselves when actually nothing should have gone wrong. After lugging around on most of the return journey, I had almost forgotten the apple case back at Bikats but thanks to our dear “oont”, Meena the case managed to keep us company.
The trek officially came to an end with our flight back to Pune and the auto rickshaw ride back home but it has left some invaluable experiences and memorable moments that shall remain with us till the end of our lives and which will bring a smile to the face every now and then when they are referred to. The trek had a mundane beginning, enduring journey and a wholesome end.
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